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Have you noticed how easy we toss around words like real estate agent or PMI? Now even a first time buyer thinks ahead about how to re-finance a house even before getting the first mortgage. New immigrants immediately get with the "old-timers" and easily plunge into conversations involving private mortgage insurance and home equity loan, re-financing and home equity line of credit, not to mention real estate prices, property taxes, so-o-o ever popular tax deductible interest and other "write offs".

"My home is my citadel".  "Home sweet home".  "There is no place like home"... Everybody has his or her own feelings about the home and understanding what this perfect home is. The "home" concept is deeply rooted in every person, every country and culture. My "home" was associated with a tiny two-room apartment on the fourth floor, a giant yard with dozens of kids playing soccer or ping-pong all the time and my grandmother calling out for me: "Lunch is ready-y-y!"  Where is it now..?

When I came living to New York, this concept started changing, though not as drastically. There are still a great lot of people living in apartments who don't own them, still blocks and blocks of huge "projects" with the common yards, basketball hoops and bus stops around the corner. The difference did not strike me hard then. It was only later, when we moved in the typical mid-Western Cincinnati, when I started realizing the meaning of the "Three-story America" phrase (to me it is a family room, sleeping quarters and a basement...) Wow, how impossible it seemed to even dream about our own home! How complicated everything sounded: mortgage, equity, closing cost, escrow account? No, it is not for us, we'll never catch-up with this! I am sure, a lot of us, new (and not only new) immigrants are having similar dilemma: there is this dream house clearly etched on the back of the mind and there is this huge gap between you and your dream, and you have a very little clue of how to get there. On the surface it may sound pretty simple: you find a real estate agent and with a little patience your dream will somehow come true. Not that easy!

Are you ready to buy? How much of a house can you afford? Do you even need a real estate agent or is it worth a shot trying yourself? What common mistakes do you want to avoid? I am sure, you asked these and dozens of similar questions, but did you get the answers you need? Or even, do you have anybody to turn to for help? I'd like to share my experience and ideas with you and make this "sweet home" happen a little easier.

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Buying a house

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Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI)

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Home Equity Loan

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Re-financing a house

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Selling a house

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Buying a house

From my own experience I know that not all the people come up with the decision to buy a house under similar circumstances. For some it is a result of a long conscientious process of analyzing all "pros and cons"; the others just think it may be cool to own the piece of property; the third got sick and tired listening to the friends and relatives talking of how you waste money renting and how you are missing out this great time when the mortgage is so cheap! Anyways, this idea got stuck deeply in your mind and now you are ready to dive in with both feet! But are you really?

Renting versus Buying

You, probably, often heard people saying that you can write-off your mortgage, that you are paying yourself when you own and what a huge waste paying the rent is. But the truth is that not all of them know what they are talking about. Most people have strong opinions when it comes to the "rent or buy" question—some suggest you're crazy for throwing money away in rent; others insist you'd be reckless to invest too much cash in buying a house. In general, there's no clear answer as to whether you should rent or buy—it all depends on your specific situation.

One of the biggest advantages to renting a home is that it allows you to remain mobile. A renter has no long-term financial obligation for housing, which makes it easier to move in order to follow careers. If you don't want to stay in one place for several years, it's a good idea to put off buying a home for awhile. Likewise, renters have very little to worry about when it comes to property values and don't have to worry about sinking a large amount of cash into appliances or home improvements. On the downside, renters aren't building up their net worth—the money they pay for rent is going into someone else's pocket and won't financially benefit the renter in the long run.

If you do plan to live in an area for several years and have enough cash for a down payment, buying a house may be a smart move. Although the original costs (like down payments and closing fees) can become expensive, owning property has distinct advantages over renting. The only flip side is if you find an apartment that rents for much lower than market value and allows you to invest your money elsewhere.

When deciding whether you can afford to buy a house, it's a good idea to know what type of property you want to buy (such as a house, condominium or townhouse).

Once the home is purchased, the monthly expenses attributed to owning the property start.  Water and sewer as well as other charges must be paid.  So do property taxes and insurance.  And then whether it's summer fall or winter, the property must be maintained.  Lawn mowing, fall cleanup and snow removal are all chores that need to be done around the home and in many cases some expensive equipment may need to be purchased to do this maintenance.  Then there's the maintenance that the house itself needs. As an example, monthly gas and electricity bill may average $100-$140, water and sewer $40-$50, waste removal $15-$20, property taxes $120-$200, homeowners insurance $30-$40. All this may easily total to some $300-$400 a month.

Building the equity into your house (in other wards, how much you really own while re-paying the mortgage back) is a very slow process. Many people do not realize that especially during the first years (roughly half of the mortgage life) huge percentage of their monthly payments is applied not towards the principal (this is the part of the house they own), but towards the interest. Re-paying the debt is not spread equally over the life of the loan and the ratio of principal-interest in the monthly payments is changing constantly: first several month you may be paying only 20% towards equity and 80% in the bank interest. At the end very of the loan life this ratio reverses.

On the other hand, mortgage interest (only interest, not the entire mortgage amount!) is tax-deductible.  As an example: a homeowner has a gross annual income of $40,000. The monthly mortgage payment is $1,000 on a 30-year mortgage. In the first few years, 80 percent of that payment goes to interest and is therefore tax deductible. In the 15 percent tax bracket, the homeowner saved about $375 more in taxes.

Where do you start?

Unless you are one of the lucky few (or not that few..) who can fork over enough cash to buy out the house, you will need to get a mortgage. So, start by asking yourself: will I qualify for a mortgage? Do I have a credit history? How much house can I afford?

In the mortgage industry today, more and more lenders are relying on credit scoring models sometimes referred to as Fair Isaac Scoring to make credit decisions. A higher score results in less risk to the mortgage lender. To learn more about credit score, click here.

A few tips on how to improve your credit history:

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Open and use a checking or savings account.

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Open and use a limited credit card account and try not to have 60-days late payments.

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Stay current on all bills and rent payments for 12 to 18 months.

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Reduce your debt by paying off some debts and closing un-necessary credit card accounts.

bulletBe aware that your FICO Credit Score could be lowered every time you apply for a loan and the broker/lender runs your credit report. Don't request 20 quotes on the first try, find out if you filled out the application completely and correctly first.
bulletFirst time buyer with no credit history? Create one from payments you have made on time that are not recorded by the credit bureaus. For example, car insurance payments, college payments, phone, cable and electrical bills and child care expenses. Provide the last 12 months cancelled checks or a letter from the person or company you are paying to verify that you made the payments on time.

How much house can you afford?

There's little point in house hunting before you know how much you can afford. Two key issues of how much you can borrow are:

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the amount you have available as a deposit

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your level of income.

The amount of the down payment (Loan To Value or LTV ratio) determines whether mortgage insurance is necessary for the loan. A down payment of 20% results in 80% Loan To Value and the equity is great enough to cover any expenses of foreclosure and resale. If the Loan To Value is greater than 80%, mortgage insurance is generally required to cover the expenses of foreclosure and resale.

A mortgage lender will ask for proof of income to see if you can afford the mortgage repayments. Stable income means that you can prove you make enough money every year to qualify for the loan. If you are salaried, a lender will use your gross monthly salary to qualify you. If you are self-employed, commissioned, using bonuses or part-time income to qualify, the lender will average two years income to arrive at a stable number.

The lender will also want to know about any existing debts you have, such as personal loans, as these may impact on your ability to repay the mortgage. They will take into account the amount you owe and/or the amount you are able to borrow on your credit cards. They will use the full amount of the limit on your credit card even if you do not owe that much and may suggest that you reduce the limit on your card to guard against getting into too much debt.

Lenders use debt to income ratios to determine qualification. Acceptable ratios change with the loan program. There are usually two ratios used:

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The "front" ratio: the total amount of the new principal, interest, taxes, insurance (also called PITI) should not exceed 25-35% of your gross monthly income, depending on the loan program. If you are buying a condo, co-op, or a house that has a homeowner's fee, you will have to add the monthly fee to your PITI to calculate this ratio.

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The "back" ratio: the total PITI plus all your monthly debts (including car loans, student loans, credit cards, alimony, child support, and other recurring monthly debts) should not exceed 33-41% of your gross monthly income, depending on the loan program. Some programs allow up to 50% ratio.
Example: your gross monthly income is $3500. You have a car payment of $300/month. Using 36% for a "back ratio", we will come up with a number of $3500X36%=$1260. Subtracting your car payment from it gives a comfortable monthly re-payment in the amount of $1260-$300=$960. This is approximately how much of a monthly PITI payment the lender will allow when calculating the mortgage amount.

The following chart may help you see what your maximum monthly debt is based on your annual gross salary:

Gross income

28% of monthly (front ratio)

36% of monthly (back ratio)

$20,000

$467

$600

$30,000

$700

$900

$40,000

$933

$1,200

$50,000

$1,167

$1,500

$60,000

$1,400

$1,800

$80,000

$1,867

$2,400

$100,000

$2,333

$3,000

$150,000

$3,500

$4,500

Types of mortgages

Most lenders offer several types of mortgages; the most common are the fixed-rate mortgages for 30 years or 15 years.

bullet30-year fixed rate
This mortgage is an industry standard, as total payments are spread over so many years that your monthly payments are lower than they would be on a shorter term loan. The interest rate, which is set, or locked in, at the time of obtaining the mortgage, remains the same throughout the life of the loan.
On a 30-year loan, you end up paying thousands of dollars more in interest compared with a shorter-term obligation, but this interest is 100-percent tax deductible, which reduces your after-tax cost.
 
bullet15-year fixed rate
This mortgage also is becoming a common loan because borrowers pay a lower interest rate in exchange for larger monthly payments. Note, however, that a smaller portion of your monthly payment goes for interest and therefore the tax deduction is smaller.
With a 15-year mortgage you could get an interest rate that is typically one-quarter to one-half percent lower than a 30-year mortgage. The shorter the term, generally the lower the interest. Yet, the main advantage is the fortune in interest you will be saving during the life of the loan.
Example
Let’s say you have a $100,000 mortgage. Let’s compare how much money you would pay out in interest over 30 years vs.15 years. The following chart shows the numbers. The monthly loan payments are principal and interest only. As you can see, with a 15-year loan, you would save $94,726 in interest.
 

Loan term

Rate

Mthly. payment

Total interest

30 years

8.00%

$699

$164,155

15 years

7.75%

$941

$ 69,429

Interest savings: $ 94,726

But there are other factors to consider:
Take the example above: With the 15-year loan, the monthly mortgage payment is $242 more than the 30-year mortgage. You may want to put that money toward another investment.
Keep in mind that you can prepay your mortgage each month, so that the loan is paid off sooner than 30 years.
Also, it depends on how long you plan to own the home you are purchasing. If it’s less than five years, you may be better off with an adjustable-rate mortgage, or ARM.

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Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM)
Adjustable-rate mortgages, known as ARMs, differ from fixed-rate mortgages in that the interest rate moves up or down.
Some ARMs adjust the interest rate every year, while others have an initial fixed rate period of 3, 5, 7 or even 10 years, after which the rate adjusts on an annual basis. The more short term the index that your ARM is tied to, the more volatile your payments will be. That’s good if interest rates fall, but it can cause trouble if interest rates rise.


How to find this perfect home?

This is a million-dollar question that nobody knows the right answer to!

In my opinion, when buying a house it is worth it to work with the real estate agent. They don't charge buyers for their services and work on the commissions they split with the seller's agent. Make sure you deal with a decent, reliable and experienced professional and feel comfortable discussing very private matters with him or her. Also, have him provide you with a written document confirming that s/he will only represent you as a buyer. This will eliminate possible conflict of interests in case your agent tries to sell you a house that s/he is personally listing for sale and getting commissions paid by the seller.

You can also try to find a house by yourself, though it takes much more time and effort. Buying your home yourself can save you a lot of money. The trick is zeroing in on properties sold by owner and coming to the negotiating table fully informed. Finding your home yourself can save you thousands of dollars if you negotiate with the seller to share the unpaid commission with you. Good negotiating skills are very important to make buying by owner work to your advantage.

How about financing?

There are two main sources of obtaining a mortgage: banks and mortgage brokers.

bulletBanks will be competitive in and limited to the products they choose to provide, and encourage their loan originators to sell these products to the consumer. Often banks will choose to fill a niche, such as free pre-approvals, rather then attempting to be competitive in rate.
Brokers represent a number of lenders and offer these lender's products through a wholesale arrangement. The lender upon delivering a loan compensates the broker, and the compensation is invisible to the borrower. Brokers who provide their services on the Internet tend to be the most competitive source for mortgages, due to reduced overhead and implementation of the latest in technology.
 
bulletBanks are restricted to their own products. That is, they will not provide unbiased advice nor selection. Brokers on the other hand can offer all available products, from multiple sources, and can be objective in their recommendations.
When you walk into your local bank, the application is usually taken right in the branch by one of the bank's loan originators. Odds are, your loan will be underwritten within that same branch, and upon approval it is that bank that will loan you the money. Should you get declined, you will be forced to start this process over from step one with another lender. Should you opt to work with a broker, and a lender declines you, the broker simply evaluates the reason for decline, and forwards your application to a lender that will accept your situation. Many times the broker has your application reviewed by more than one lender right from the beginning of the process to ensure a timely closing.
 
bulletLoan Pre-approval is a process where the lender certifies that you are financially qualified and credit worthy for a specified loan amount on a yet unspecified property. Meanwhile, loan Pre-qualification is a simple exercise during which you get an estimate of how large a loan you may be able to obtain. It is just an estimate. No credit report is checked and no promise of a loan is made at this stage.
 
bulletOnce you have chosen a certain loan program with a lender, you should ask them to guarantee, or lock-in, the interest rate that you've discussed. Better yet, make sure that they will let you grab a lower rate in the event that rates should fall during the process. Make sure the lock-in period is long enough to get you to the closing and that the sellers can vacate in 45-60 days. Requesting a longer lock-in period (90 days, for example) may cost you a little higher interest rate. If you have enough time before the closing date, you may take a risk of not locking the rate (or "let the rate float"). Then, you are playing against the odds and hoping that the rates will go down, not up. Good luck!
 

Paying Points. Points are fees that are paid at the front of the loan (typically, at the closing) to reduce the interest rate. A point is equal to 1% of the loan amount (on the $100,000 loan, one point equals to $1000). In most cases, loans with points usually have a lower interest rate than that of “no points” loans. Assuming that you don’t finance the points, paying points is a trade off between paying the money now or later.
Because points are prepaid interest, you need to be sure you will keep the loan long enough to recoup these costs through lower monthly mortgage payments. If you know that there is a possibility that you will not keep the loan for the full term (i.e. you move or refinance in a better market climate), you should not pay points.

Down to nitty-gritty

Obviously, there is a lot of nerve-wrecking work involved when you get down to actually choosing a house, making an offer, negotiating, ordering house inspection and finally, going through the closing procedure. Hopefully, your real estate agent should guide you through all these hard times and one day you will turn the key and walk into that dream-house. If you are doing all the legwork yourself, you may want to consider asking for the advice from your friends, relatives or start reading books and surfing Internet. And if you like what you saw in this Web site, I am just an E-mail away!
 

Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI)

Private mortgage insurance (also called PMI) is insurance provided by a mortgage insurance company to protect a lender in the event of default (borrower being un-able to keep re-paying the debt) on a loan.
Here's how it works.

  1. You have a 5% down payment.
     

  2. The lender wants to finance 80% or less of the home's value, since studies show that buyers who put less down are more likely to default.
     

  3. The lender secures a PMI policy for you and closes on the loan. You pay for the PMI policy at closing or (most often) it is added to your monthly loan payment.
     

  4. If you default, the lender receives the 15% you did not pay at closing.

    PMI is generally required when a borrower puts less than 20% down on a loan.
    The borrower pays for mortgage insurance on a monthly basis in addition to the principal and interest payments that are made on a loan. The lender then transfers the PMI payments to the insurance company.
    Mortgage Insurance companies offer several options to the borrower. A monthly premium plan requires two monthly premiums to be prepaid at closing, with a fixed premium due monthly.
    An annual plan requires one year of premiums paid at time of closing, but offers lower monthly premium payments.
    Most buyers are choosing the monthly premium plan.

How much will it cost you? Premium prices vary. They are based on the size of the down payment, type of mortgage and amount of insurance coverage. Premiums typically are folded into your monthly mortgage payment. The range for a median priced home is $40 to $70 per month.

As your home appreciates or your loan balance decreases (or a combination of the two), your equity in the home will exceed 20%. At that time a favored method of eliminating the PMI tied to the loan is to refinance. The savings on the PMI alone can often warrant the refinance.

Beware! The lender will not automatically cancel your PMI even after you exceed 20% equity! You will have to keep an eye on it and request to have the PMI canceled once you exceed 20% equity in your home. You might also be able to cancel the PMI if you can show proof that your home has increased in value, but lenders often have a minimum wait time before they will accept such evidence--typically two years.

Home Equity Loan

Before you start thinking about taking a home equity loan, let's make sure that we understand what the "equity" is.

Let's say you bought your home for $95,000 and made a 20 percent down payment of $19,000. You then took a first mortgage to pay the remaining $76,000. On the day you closed on your home, you automatically had 20 percent equity. You gain equity as you pay off the principal and your home grows in value.
Let's say you've paid $12,000 toward the principal and your property -- valued at $95,000 when you bought it -- is now worth $115,000 (in other words, it "appreciated", or became more valuable by $20,000, lucky you...) Your beginning equity ($19,000), plus the principal you have paid ($12,000) and the increase in your property value ($20,000) gives you $51,000 in equity. So, equity is the part of your house that you, and not the bank, already own.

There are two types of equity loans: term, or closed-end loans, and lines of credit.
Both are technically "second mortgages," but that description most commonly refers to term equity loans. When you are paying on an equity loan, you have two active mortgages and make two separate payments. The first, of course, is your original mortgage.
Second mortgages and lines of credit are usually for a shorter term than the mortgage you used to buy your home in the first place. First mortgages typically run up to 30 years, while equity loans typically have a life of five to 15 years.

A home equity loan, sometimes called a "term" loan, is a one-time lump sum that is paid off over a set amount of time, with a fixed interest rate and the same payments each month. Once you get the money, you cannot borrow further from the loan.

A home equity line of credit (HELOC) works more like a credit card. You are allowed to borrow up to a certain amount for the life of the loan, a time limit set by the lender. During that time you can withdraw money as you need it. As you pay off the principal, your credit revolves and you can use it again. Let's say you have a $10,000 line of credit. You borrow $5,000, but then pay back $3,000 toward the principal. You now have $8,000 in available credit. This gives you more flexibility than a fixed-rate home equity loan.
Credit lines have a variable interest rate that fluctuates over the life of the loan. Payments will vary depending on the interest rate and how much credit you have used. When the life span of a line of credit has expired everything must be paid off. A lender may or may not allow a renewal.
Lines of credit are accessed by specially issued checks or a credit card. Lenders often require you to take an initial advance when you set up the loan, withdraw a minimum amount each time you dip into it and keep a minimum amount outstanding.

Financial institutions negotiate a home equity loan just like they do a mortgage: You have to pay off the loan or line of credit when you sell the house.

The best news is that the interest on home equity loans is usually tax-deductible for up to $100,000 on your home's principal mortgage balance.
Of course, the sooner you pay off the loan, the less it will cost you in interest.

How much can you borrow against your equity? It depends on the program and Loan-to-Value ratio (LTV).
To calculate an LTV ratio, let's say you agree to buy a home with a fair market value of $100,000. You put down $20,000 -- or 20 percent -- of the price as down payment. You borrow the rest -- $80,000 -- to complete the purchase. That means your mortgage LTV ratio is 80 percent, because your loan amount is 80 percent of the value of the home.

How is LTV calculated for a home equity loan?

Let's say your house now has a fair market value of $150,000, and your first mortgage has a principal balance of $50,000. Your equity is $100,000. If you want to borrow $40,000 against that equity, combine that with what you owe ($50,000), and it leaves you with a total debt of $90,000.
In this case, your combined debts of $90,000 are compared with your home's value of $150,000, for a total LTV ratio of 60 percent.
Traditionally, LTV caps are 80-85 percent, but there are lenders who will give out loans of 125 percent loan-to-value -- which means they are letting you borrow more than your house is worth.

When applying, ask the lender about the length of the home equity loan, whether there is a minimum withdrawal requirement when you open your account, and whether there are minimum or maximum withdrawal requirements after your account is opened. Inquire how you gain access to your credit line -- with checks, credit cards, or both.

Also, find out if your home equity plan sets a fixed time -- a draw period -- when you can make withdrawals from your account. Once the draw period expires, you may be able to renew your credit line. If you cannot, you will not be permitted to borrow additional funds. Also, in some plans, you may have to pay your full outstanding balance. In others, you may be able to repay the balance over a fixed time.

Most common uses
Source: Consumer Bankers Association

HELOC

 

Home equity loan

40%

Debt Consolidation

44%

23%

Home Improvement

25%

7%

Automobile

7%

6%

Education

4%

6%

Major purchase

2%

3%

Investment

2%

2%

Household expenditures

2%

2%

Business expense

1%

1%

Medical

1%

1%

Vacation

1%

9%

Other/Don't know

11%

 

Re-financing a house

The purpose of most refinance loans is simply to save money. The goal is to minimize your expense over the life of the loan or to minimize your monthly payment in the near future.
If you can get your cost back within a year (or at least, couple of years) and have lower payments thereafter then refinancing probably makes sense for you. With this type of refinance keeping the cost down is important.

The old rule of thumb on refinancing held that the interest rate would need to decline by at least 2% for the refinancing to be worthwhile. A more accurate measurement would be to consider the savings in monthly payment, the costs of the loan transaction, and the term of the new loan compared to the old term. The key is to determine whether the benefits of payment savings and/or term reduction exceeds the costs of the transaction.

When you refinance your mortgage, you usually pay off your original mortgage and sign a new loan. With a new loan, you again pay most of the same costs you paid to get your original mortgage. These can include settlement costs, discount points, and other fees. You also may be charged a penalty for paying off your original loan early, although some states prohibit this.

The total expense for refinancing a mortgage depends on the interest rate, number of points, and other costs required to obtain a loan. To obtain the lowest rate offered by the lender, most lenders will charge several points, and the total cost can run between three and six percent of the total amount you borrow. So, for example, on a $100,000 mortgage, the lender might charge you between $3,000 and $6,000. However, some lenders may offer zero points at a higher interest rate, which may significantly reduce your initial costs, although your payments may be somewhat higher.

With a lower interest rate on your home loan, you will have less interest to deduct on your income tax return. That, of course, may increase your tax payments and decrease the total savings you might obtain from a new, lower-interest mortgage.

If you are thinking about refinancing your mortgage, you might want to consider other types of mortgages. For example, if you have a 30-year mortgage, you might want to look into a 15-year, fixed-rate mortgage. In this plan, your mortgage payments are somewhat higher than a longer-term loan, but you pay substantially less interest over the life of the loan and build equity more quickly. (Of course, this also means you have less interest to deduct on your income tax return.)

You also might want to consider refinancing if you have an adjustable rate mortgage with high or no limits on interest rate increases. You might want to switch to a fixed-rate mortgage or to an adjustable rate mortgage that limits changes in the rate at each adjustment date as well as over the life of the loan.

And, of course, this is a good time to get rid of the Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI), because chances are that by the time you decided to refinance, you will have accumulated over 20% equity in your home.
 
Below is a snapshot of a hypothetical refinancing situation (I used http://www.kiplinger.com/tools/index.html for calculations). A person purchased a $130,000 house, put $30,000 down (or over 20%, so no PMI was involved), and took a $100,000, 30-year fixed mortgage at 8.5% interest rate. After 3 years he decided to refinance and found a 15-year fixed mortgage at 7% interest, which cost him $1000 in closing cost. He is not a big time investor and planning only to get a very moderate 5% return on his savings. In about 10 years he is figuring to sell the house and move to a smaller condo (don't we all..?) By refinancing, his total saving over projected 10 years will amount to over $8000, though the monthly payments are slightly higher. It is also worth mentioning that he will recoup $1000 spent on the closing costs after only 9 months by paying less interest. If refinancing had resulted in PMI elimination, the savings would've been even greater.

Regarding Your Existing Loan:
Original Loan Amount   $  
Original Term in Years      
Years Already Paid      
Balloon Year (zero if none)      
Interest Rate     %
 
Regarding Your New Loan:
Term in Years      
Balloon Year (zero if none)      
Discount Points     %
Origination Fee     %
Other Loan Costs   $  
Interest Rate     %
 
Regarding Your Property:
Appraised Value   $  
Yearly Property Taxes   $  
Yearly Homeowner's Insurance   $  
 
Regarding Yourself:
Your Savings Rate     %
Your State + Federal Tax Rate     %
Years Before You Sell
 
     


Refinancing will save you, in today's dollars, $8,147 over the 10 years.
 

Your Total Monthly Payment With the Original Loan   $977
Your Total Monthly Payment With the New Loan   $1,085

 

Selling a house

From my limited experience, selling the house could be even more frustrating than buying. Very often you are under the gun to sell by certain time because you already have another house earmarked to buy and may be even signed a purchase contract. You don't seem to be in control of selling: it is just nobody is interested in buying from you and there is not a lot of showing going on! And you are just sick and tired of this old house and the damned neighbor's kids.

I tried selling by myself once: it did not work. But I bought a house sold by owners, so I know it can work. I used a company who helps selling by owner and I used real estate agent. It is just a matter of preference, what you want and can do and at the end of the day--pure luck!

If you are interested in my experience, feel free to contact me.

Real Estate links

A few links that I found extremely helpful while working on this page:

http://www.cincybyowner.com/index.html

http://www.cinhomes.com/

http://www.bayhouse.com/index.shtml

http://www.keystonefunding.com/

http://www.esourcemortgage.com/101/

http://www.businessweek.com/investor/nonips_content/pf_all_learn.htm

http://www.owners.com/Tools/BuyerHandbook/DecideToBuy.asp

http://www.creditoption.com/default.htm

http://www.bankrate.com/brm/default.asp

http://www.ftc.gov/

 

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