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Have you noticed how easy we toss around words like real estate
agent or PMI? Now even a first time buyer thinks ahead about how to re-finance a
house even before getting the first mortgage. New immigrants immediately get
with the "old-timers" and easily plunge into conversations involving private
mortgage insurance and home equity loan, re-financing and home equity line of
credit, not to mention real estate prices, property taxes, so-o-o ever popular
tax deductible interest and other "write offs".
"My home is my citadel". "Home sweet home". "There is no place
like home"... Everybody has his or her own feelings about the home and
understanding what this perfect home is. The
"home"
concept is deeply rooted in every person, every country and culture. My "home"
was associated with a tiny two-room apartment on the fourth floor, a giant yard
with dozens of kids playing soccer or ping-pong all the time and my grandmother
calling out for me: "Lunch is ready-y-y!" Where is it now..?
When I came living to New York, this concept started changing,
though not as drastically. There are still a great lot of people living in
apartments who don't own them, still blocks and blocks of huge "projects" with
the common yards, basketball hoops and bus stops around the corner. The
difference did not strike me hard then. It was only later, when we moved in the
typical mid-Western Cincinnati, when I started realizing the meaning of the
"Three-story America" phrase (to me it is a family room, sleeping
quarters and a
basement...) Wow, how impossible it seemed to even dream about our own home! How
complicated everything sounded: mortgage, equity, closing cost, escrow account?
No, it is not for us, we'll never catch-up with this! I am sure, a lot of us,
new (and not only new) immigrants are having similar dilemma: there is this
dream house clearly etched on the back of the mind and there is this huge gap
between you and your dream, and you have a very little clue of how to get there.
On the surface it may sound pretty simple: you find a real estate agent and with
a little patience your dream will somehow come true. Not that easy!
Are you ready to buy? How much of a house can you afford? Do you
even need a real estate agent or is it worth a shot trying yourself? What
common mistakes do you want to avoid? I am sure, you asked these and dozens of
similar questions, but did you get the answers you need? Or even, do you have
anybody to turn to for help? I'd like to share my experience and ideas with you
and make this "sweet home" happen a little easier.
Buying a house
From my own experience I know that not all the people come up
with the decision to buy a house under similar circumstances. For some it is a
result of a long conscientious process of analyzing all "pros and cons"; the
others just think it may be cool to own the piece of property; the third got
sick and tired listening to the friends and relatives talking of how you waste
money renting and how you are missing out this great time when the mortgage is
so cheap! Anyways, this idea got stuck deeply in your mind and now you are ready
to dive in with both feet! But are you really?
Renting versus Buying
You, probably, often heard people saying that you can write-off
your mortgage, that you are paying yourself when you own and what a huge waste
paying the rent is. But the truth is that not all of them know what they are
talking about. Most people have strong
opinions when it comes to the "rent or buy" question—some suggest you're crazy
for throwing money away in rent; others insist you'd be reckless to invest too
much cash in buying a house. In general, there's no clear answer as to whether
you should rent or buy—it all depends on your specific situation.
One of the biggest advantages to renting a home is that it allows you to remain
mobile. A renter has no long-term financial obligation for housing, which makes
it easier to move in order to follow careers. If you don't want to stay in one
place for several years, it's a good idea to put off buying a home for awhile.
Likewise, renters have very little to worry about when it comes to property
values and don't have to worry about sinking a large amount of cash into
appliances or home improvements. On the downside, renters aren't building up
their net worth—the money they pay for rent is going into someone else's pocket
and won't financially benefit the renter in the long run.
If you do plan to live in an area for several years and have enough cash for a
down payment, buying a house may be a smart move. Although the original costs
(like down payments and closing fees) can become expensive, owning property has
distinct advantages over renting. The only flip side is if you find an apartment
that rents for much lower than market value and allows you to invest your money
elsewhere.
When deciding whether you can afford to buy a house, it's a good idea to know
what type of property you want to buy (such as a house, condominium or
townhouse).
Once the home is purchased, the monthly expenses
attributed to owning the property start. Water and sewer as well as other
charges must be paid. So do property taxes and insurance. And then whether
it's summer fall or winter, the property must be maintained. Lawn mowing, fall
cleanup and snow removal are all chores that need to be done around the home and
in many cases some expensive equipment may need to be purchased to do this
maintenance. Then there's the maintenance that the house itself needs. As an
example, monthly gas and electricity bill may average $100-$140, water and sewer
$40-$50, waste removal $15-$20, property taxes $120-$200, homeowners insurance
$30-$40. All this may easily total to some $300-$400 a month.
Building the equity into your house (in other
wards, how much you really own while re-paying the mortgage back) is a very slow
process. Many people do not realize that especially during the first years
(roughly half of the mortgage life) huge percentage of their monthly payments is
applied not towards the principal (this is the part of the house they own), but
towards the interest. Re-paying the debt is not spread equally over the life of
the loan and the ratio of principal-interest in the monthly payments is changing
constantly: first several month you may be paying only 20% towards equity and
80% in the bank interest. At the end very of the loan life this ratio reverses.
On the other hand, mortgage interest (only
interest, not the entire mortgage amount!) is tax-deductible. As an example:
a homeowner has a gross
annual income of $40,000. The monthly mortgage payment is $1,000 on a 30-year
mortgage. In the first few years, 80 percent of that payment goes to interest
and is therefore tax deductible. In the 15 percent tax bracket, the homeowner
saved about $375 more in taxes.
Where do
you start?
Unless you are one of the lucky few (or not that
few..) who can fork over enough cash to buy out the house, you will need to get
a mortgage. So, start by asking yourself: will I qualify for a mortgage? Do I
have a credit history? How much house can I afford?
In the mortgage industry today, more and more
lenders are relying on credit scoring models sometimes referred to as Fair Isaac
Scoring to make credit decisions. A higher score results in less risk to the
mortgage lender. To learn more about credit score, click
here.
A few tips on how to improve your credit history:
 |
Open and use a checking or savings account. |
 |
Open and use a limited credit card account and try
not to have 60-days late payments. |
 |
Stay current on all bills and rent payments for 12
to 18 months. |
 |
Reduce your debt by paying off some debts and
closing un-necessary credit card accounts. |
 | Be aware that your
FICO Credit Score could be lowered every time you
apply for a loan and the broker/lender runs your credit report.
Don't request 20 quotes on the first
try, find out if you filled out the application completely and correctly
first. |
 | First time buyer with no credit history?
Create one from payments you have made on time that are not recorded by the
credit bureaus. For example, car insurance payments, college payments, phone,
cable and electrical bills and child care expenses. Provide the last 12 months
cancelled checks or a letter from the person or company you are paying to
verify that you made the payments on time. |
How much house can you afford?
There's little point in house hunting before you
know how much you can afford. Two key issues of how much you can borrow are:
 |
the amount you have available as a deposit |
 |
your level of income. |
The amount of the down payment
(Loan To Value or LTV ratio) determines whether
mortgage insurance is
necessary for the loan. A down payment of 20% results in 80% Loan To Value and
the equity is great enough to cover any expenses of foreclosure and resale. If
the Loan To Value is greater than 80%, mortgage insurance is generally required
to cover the expenses of foreclosure and resale.
A mortgage lender will ask for proof of income to
see if you can afford the mortgage repayments. Stable income means that you can
prove you make enough money every year to qualify for the loan. If you are
salaried, a lender will use your gross monthly salary to qualify you. If you are
self-employed, commissioned, using bonuses or part-time income to qualify, the
lender will average two years income to arrive at a stable number.
The lender will also want to know about any existing
debts you have, such as personal loans, as these may impact on your ability to
repay the mortgage. They will take into account the amount you owe and/or the
amount you are able to borrow on your credit cards. They will use the full
amount of the limit on your credit card even if you do not owe that much and may
suggest that you reduce the limit on your card to guard against getting into too
much debt.
Lenders use debt to income ratios to determine
qualification. Acceptable ratios change with the loan program. There are usually
two ratios used:
 |
The "front" ratio: the total amount of the new
principal, interest, taxes, insurance (also called PITI) should not exceed
25-35% of your gross monthly income, depending on the loan program. If you are
buying a condo, co-op, or a house that has a homeowner's fee, you will have to
add the monthly fee to your PITI to calculate this ratio. |
 |
The "back" ratio: the total PITI plus all your
monthly debts (including car loans, student loans, credit cards, alimony,
child support, and other recurring monthly debts) should not exceed 33-41% of
your gross monthly income, depending on the loan program. Some programs allow
up to 50% ratio.
Example: your gross monthly income
is $3500. You have a car payment of $300/month. Using 36% for a "back ratio",
we will come up with a number of $3500X36%=$1260. Subtracting your car payment
from it gives a comfortable monthly re-payment in the amount of
$1260-$300=$960. This is approximately how much of a monthly PITI payment the
lender will allow when calculating the mortgage amount. |
The following chart may help you see what your
maximum monthly debt is based on your annual gross salary:
|
Gross income |
28% of monthly (front
ratio) |
36% of monthly (back
ratio) |
|
$20,000 |
$467 |
$600 |
|
$30,000 |
$700 |
$900 |
|
$40,000 |
$933 |
$1,200 |
|
$50,000 |
$1,167 |
$1,500 |
|
$60,000 |
$1,400 |
$1,800 |
|
$80,000 |
$1,867 |
$2,400 |
|
$100,000 |
$2,333 |
$3,000 |
|
$150,000 |
$3,500 |
$4,500 |
Types of mortgages
Most lenders offer several types of mortgages;
the most common are the fixed-rate mortgages for 30 years or 15 years.
 | 30-year fixed rate
This mortgage is an industry standard, as total payments are spread over so
many years that your monthly payments are lower than they would be on a
shorter term loan. The interest rate, which is set, or locked in, at the time
of obtaining the mortgage, remains the same throughout the life of the loan.
On a 30-year loan, you end up paying thousands of dollars more in interest
compared with a shorter-term obligation, but this interest is 100-percent tax
deductible, which reduces your after-tax cost.
|
 | 15-year fixed rate
This mortgage also is becoming a common loan because borrowers
pay a lower interest rate in exchange for larger monthly payments. Note,
however, that a smaller portion of your monthly payment goes for interest and
therefore the tax deduction is smaller.
With a 15-year mortgage you could get an interest rate that is typically
one-quarter to one-half percent lower than a
30-year mortgage. The shorter the term, generally the lower the
interest. Yet, the main advantage is the fortune in interest you will be
saving during the life of the loan.
Example
Let’s say you have a $100,000 mortgage. Let’s compare how much money you would
pay out in interest over 30 years vs.15 years. The following chart shows the
numbers. The monthly loan payments are principal and interest only. As you can
see, with a 15-year loan, you would save $94,726 in interest.
|
|
Loan term |
Rate |
Mthly. payment |
Total interest |
|
30 years |
8.00% |
$699 |
$164,155 |
|
15 years |
7.75% |
$941 |
$ 69,429 |
|
Interest savings: $ 94,726 |
But there are other factors to
consider:
Take the example above: With the 15-year loan, the monthly mortgage payment is
$242 more than the 30-year mortgage. You may want to put that money toward
another investment.
Keep in mind that you can prepay your mortgage each month, so that the loan is
paid off sooner than 30 years.
Also, it depends on how long you plan to own the home you are purchasing. If
it’s less than five years, you may be better off with an adjustable-rate
mortgage, or ARM.
 |
Adjustable
Rate Mortgage (ARM)
Adjustable-rate mortgages, known as
ARMs, differ from fixed-rate mortgages in that the interest rate moves up or
down.
Some ARMs adjust the interest rate every year, while others have an initial
fixed rate period of 3, 5, 7 or even 10 years, after which the rate adjusts on
an annual basis. The more short term the index that your ARM is tied to, the
more volatile your payments will be. That’s good if interest rates fall, but it
can cause trouble if interest rates rise.
|
How to find this perfect home?
This is a million-dollar question
that nobody knows the right answer to!
In my opinion, when buying a house
it is worth it to work with the real estate agent. They don't charge buyers for
their services and work on the commissions they split with the seller's agent.
Make sure you deal with a decent, reliable and experienced professional and feel
comfortable discussing very private matters with him or her. Also, have him
provide you with a written document confirming that s/he will only represent you
as a buyer. This will eliminate possible conflict of interests in case your
agent tries to sell you a house that s/he is personally listing for sale and
getting commissions paid by the seller.
You can also try to find a house by
yourself, though it takes much more time and effort. Buying your home yourself
can save you a lot of money. The trick is zeroing in on properties sold by owner
and coming to the negotiating table fully informed. Finding your home yourself
can save you thousands of dollars if you negotiate with the seller to share the
unpaid commission with you. Good negotiating skills are very important to make
buying by owner work to your advantage.
How about financing?
There are two main sources of obtaining a
mortgage: banks and mortgage brokers.
 | Banks will be competitive in and limited to
the products they choose to provide, and encourage their loan originators to
sell these products to the consumer. Often banks will choose to fill a niche,
such as free pre-approvals, rather then attempting to be competitive in rate.
Brokers represent a number of lenders and offer these lender's products
through a wholesale arrangement. The lender upon delivering a loan compensates
the broker, and the compensation is invisible to the borrower. Brokers who
provide their services on the Internet tend to be the most competitive source
for mortgages, due to reduced overhead and implementation of the latest in
technology.
|
 | Banks are restricted to their own products.
That is, they will not provide unbiased advice nor selection. Brokers on the
other hand can offer all available products, from multiple sources, and can be
objective in their recommendations.
When you walk into your local bank, the application is usually taken right in
the branch by one of the bank's loan originators. Odds are, your loan will be
underwritten within that same branch, and upon approval it is that bank that
will loan you the money. Should you get declined, you will be forced to start
this process over from step one with another lender. Should you opt to work
with a broker, and a lender declines you, the broker simply evaluates the
reason for decline, and forwards your application to a lender that will accept
your situation. Many times the broker has your application reviewed by more
than one lender right from the beginning of the process to ensure a timely
closing.
|
 | Loan Pre-approval
is a process where the lender certifies that you are financially qualified and
credit worthy for a specified loan amount on a yet unspecified property.
Meanwhile, loan Pre-qualification
is a simple exercise during which you get an estimate of how large a loan you
may be able to obtain. It is just an estimate. No credit report is checked and
no promise of a loan is made at this stage.
|
 | Once you have chosen a certain loan program
with a lender, you should ask them to guarantee, or
lock-in, the interest rate that you've
discussed. Better yet, make sure that they will let you grab a lower rate in
the event that rates should fall during the process. Make sure the lock-in
period is long enough to get you to the closing and that the sellers can
vacate in 45-60 days. Requesting a longer lock-in period (90 days, for
example) may cost you a little higher interest rate. If you have enough time
before the closing date, you may take a risk of not locking the rate (or
"let the rate float"). Then, you are
playing against the odds and hoping that the rates will go down, not up. Good
luck!
|
Paying Points.
Points are fees that are
paid at the front of the loan (typically, at the closing) to reduce the
interest rate. A point is equal to 1% of the loan amount (on the $100,000
loan, one point equals to $1000). In most cases, loans with points usually
have a lower interest rate than that of “no points” loans. Assuming that you
don’t finance the points, paying points is a trade off between paying the
money now or later.
Because points are prepaid interest, you need to be sure you will keep the
loan long enough to recoup these costs through lower monthly mortgage
payments. If you know that there is a possibility that you will not keep the
loan for the full term (i.e. you move or refinance in a better market
climate), you should not pay points.
Down to nitty-gritty
Obviously, there is a lot of nerve-wrecking work
involved when you get down to actually choosing a house, making an offer,
negotiating, ordering house inspection and finally, going through the closing
procedure. Hopefully, your real estate agent should guide you through all these
hard times and one day you will turn the key and walk into that dream-house. If
you are doing all the legwork yourself, you may want to consider asking for the
advice from your friends, relatives or start reading books and surfing Internet.
And if you like what you saw in this Web site, I am
just an E-mail away!
Private Mortgage Insurance
(PMI)
Private mortgage insurance (also called PMI) is insurance
provided by a mortgage insurance company to protect a lender in the event of
default (borrower being un-able to keep re-paying the debt) on a loan.
Here's how it works.
-
You have a 5% down payment.
-
The lender wants to finance 80% or less of the home's value,
since studies show that buyers who put less down are more likely to default.
-
The lender secures a PMI policy for you and closes on the loan.
You pay for the PMI policy at closing or (most often) it is added to your
monthly loan payment.
-
If you default, the lender receives the 15% you did not pay at
closing.
PMI is generally required when a borrower puts less than 20% down on a loan.
The borrower pays for mortgage insurance on a monthly basis in addition to the
principal and interest payments that are made on a loan. The lender then
transfers the PMI payments to the insurance company.
Mortgage Insurance companies offer several options to the borrower. A monthly
premium plan requires two monthly premiums to be prepaid at closing, with a
fixed premium due monthly.
An annual plan requires one year of premiums paid at time of closing, but offers
lower monthly premium payments.
Most buyers are choosing the monthly premium plan.
How much will it cost you? Premium prices vary. They are based on
the size of the down payment, type of mortgage and amount of insurance coverage.
Premiums typically are folded into your monthly mortgage payment. The range for
a median priced home is $40 to $70 per month.
As your home appreciates or your loan balance decreases (or a
combination of the two), your equity in the home will exceed 20%. At that time a
favored method of eliminating the PMI tied to the loan is to refinance. The
savings on the PMI alone can often warrant the refinance.
Beware!
The lender
will not automatically cancel your PMI even after you exceed 20% equity! You
will have to keep an eye on it and request to have the PMI canceled once you
exceed 20% equity in your home. You might also be able to cancel the PMI if you
can show proof that your home has increased in value, but lenders often have a
minimum wait time before they will accept such evidence--typically two years.
Home Equity Loan
Before you start thinking about taking a home equity loan, let's
make sure that we understand what the "equity"
is.
Let's say you bought your home for $95,000 and made a 20 percent
down payment of $19,000. You then took a first mortgage to pay the remaining
$76,000. On the day you closed on your home, you automatically had 20 percent
equity. You gain equity as you pay off the principal and your home grows in
value.
Let's say you've paid $12,000 toward the principal and your property -- valued
at $95,000 when you bought it -- is now worth $115,000 (in other words, it
"appreciated", or became more
valuable by $20,000, lucky you...) Your beginning equity ($19,000), plus the
principal you have paid ($12,000) and the increase in your property value
($20,000) gives you $51,000 in equity. So, equity is the part of your house that
you, and not the bank, already own.
There are two types of equity loans: term, or closed-end loans,
and lines of credit.
Both are technically "second mortgages," but that description most commonly
refers to term equity loans. When you are paying on an equity loan, you have two
active mortgages and make two separate payments. The first, of course, is your
original mortgage.
Second mortgages and lines of credit are usually for a shorter term than the
mortgage you used to buy your home in the first place. First mortgages typically
run up to 30 years, while equity loans typically have a life of five to 15
years.
A home equity loan, sometimes called
a "term" loan, is a one-time lump sum that is paid off over a set amount of
time, with a fixed interest rate and the same payments each month. Once you get
the money, you cannot borrow further from the loan.
A home equity line of credit (HELOC)
works more like a credit card. You are allowed to borrow up to a certain amount
for the life of the loan, a time limit set by the lender. During that time you
can withdraw money as you need it. As you pay off the principal, your credit
revolves and you can use it again. Let's say you have a $10,000 line of credit.
You borrow $5,000, but then pay back $3,000 toward the principal. You now have
$8,000 in available credit. This gives you more flexibility than a fixed-rate
home equity loan.
Credit lines have a variable interest rate that fluctuates over the life of the
loan. Payments will vary depending on the interest rate and how much credit you
have used. When the life span of a line of credit has expired everything must be
paid off. A lender may or may not allow a renewal.
Lines of credit are accessed by specially issued checks or a credit card.
Lenders often require you to take an initial advance when you set up the loan,
withdraw a minimum amount each time you dip into it and keep a minimum amount
outstanding.
Financial institutions negotiate a home equity loan just like they do a
mortgage: You have to pay off the loan or line of credit when you sell the
house.
The best news is that the interest on home equity loans is usually
tax-deductible for up to $100,000 on your
home's principal mortgage balance.
Of course, the sooner you pay off the loan, the less it will cost you in
interest.
How much can you borrow against your equity? It depends on the
program and Loan-to-Value ratio (LTV).
To calculate an LTV ratio, let's say you agree to buy a home with a fair market
value of $100,000. You put down $20,000 -- or 20 percent -- of the price as down
payment. You borrow the rest -- $80,000 -- to complete the purchase. That means
your mortgage LTV ratio is 80 percent, because your loan amount is 80 percent of
the value of the home.
How is LTV calculated for a home equity loan?
Let's say your house now has a fair market value of $150,000, and your first
mortgage has a principal balance of $50,000. Your equity is $100,000. If you
want to borrow $40,000 against that equity, combine that with what you owe
($50,000), and it leaves you with a total debt of $90,000.
In this case, your combined debts of $90,000 are compared with your home's value
of $150,000, for a total LTV ratio of 60 percent.
Traditionally, LTV caps are 80-85 percent,
but there are lenders who will give out loans of 125 percent loan-to-value --
which means they are letting you borrow more than your house is worth.
When applying, ask the lender about the length of the home equity
loan, whether there is a minimum withdrawal requirement when you open your
account, and whether there are minimum or maximum withdrawal requirements after
your account is opened. Inquire how you gain access to your credit line -- with
checks, credit cards, or both.
Also, find out if your home equity plan sets a fixed time -- a draw period --
when you can make withdrawals from your account. Once the draw period expires,
you may be able to renew your credit line. If you cannot, you will not be
permitted to borrow additional funds. Also, in some plans, you may have to pay
your full outstanding balance. In others, you may be able to repay the balance
over a fixed time.
Most common
uses
Source:
Consumer Bankers Association
|
HELOC |
|
Home equity
loan |
|
40% |
Debt
Consolidation |
44% |
|
23% |
Home
Improvement |
25% |
|
7% |
Automobile |
7% |
|
6% |
Education |
4% |
|
6% |
Major purchase |
2% |
|
3% |
Investment |
2% |
|
2% |
Household
expenditures |
2% |
|
2% |
Business
expense |
1% |
|
1% |
Medical |
1% |
|
1% |
Vacation |
1% |
|
9% |
Other/Don't
know |
11% |
Re-financing a house
The purpose of most refinance loans is simply to save money. The
goal is to minimize your expense over the life of the loan or to minimize your
monthly payment in the near future.
If you can get your cost back within a year (or at least, couple of years) and
have lower payments thereafter then refinancing probably makes sense for you.
With this type of refinance keeping the cost down is important.
The old rule of thumb on refinancing held that the interest rate
would need to decline by at least 2% for the refinancing to be worthwhile. A
more accurate measurement would be to consider the savings in monthly payment,
the costs of the loan transaction, and the term of the new loan compared to the
old term. The key is to determine whether the benefits of payment savings and/or
term reduction exceeds the costs of the transaction.
When you refinance your mortgage, you usually pay off your
original mortgage and sign a new loan. With a new loan, you again pay most of
the same costs you paid to get your original mortgage. These can include
settlement costs, discount points, and other fees. You also may be charged a
penalty for paying off your original loan early, although some states prohibit
this.
The total expense for refinancing a mortgage depends on the interest rate,
number of points, and other costs required to obtain a loan. To obtain the
lowest rate offered by the lender, most lenders will charge several points, and
the total cost can run between three and six percent of the total amount you
borrow. So, for example, on a $100,000 mortgage, the lender might charge you
between $3,000 and $6,000. However, some lenders may offer zero points at a
higher interest rate, which may significantly reduce your initial costs,
although your payments may be somewhat higher.
With a lower interest rate on your home loan, you will have less
interest to deduct on your income tax return. That, of course, may increase your
tax payments and decrease the total savings you might obtain from a new,
lower-interest mortgage.
If you are thinking about refinancing your mortgage, you might
want to consider other types of mortgages. For example, if you have a 30-year
mortgage, you might want to look into a 15-year, fixed-rate mortgage. In this
plan, your mortgage payments are somewhat higher than a longer-term loan, but
you pay substantially less interest over the life of the loan and build equity
more quickly. (Of course, this also means you have less interest to deduct on
your income tax return.)
You also might want to consider refinancing if you have an adjustable rate
mortgage with high or no limits on interest rate increases. You might want to
switch to a fixed-rate mortgage or to an adjustable rate mortgage that limits
changes in the rate at each adjustment date as well as over the life of the
loan.
And, of course, this is a good time to get rid of the
Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI),
because chances are that by the time you decided to refinance, you will have
accumulated over 20% equity in your home.
Below is a snapshot of a hypothetical refinancing situation (I used
http://www.kiplinger.com/tools/index.html for calculations). A person
purchased a $130,000 house, put $30,000 down (or over 20%, so no PMI was
involved), and took a $100,000, 30-year fixed mortgage at 8.5% interest rate.
After 3 years he decided to refinance and found a 15-year fixed mortgage at 7%
interest, which cost him $1000 in closing cost. He is not a big time investor
and planning only to get a very moderate 5% return on his savings. In about 10
years he is figuring to sell the house and move to a smaller condo (don't we
all..?) By refinancing, his total saving over projected 10 years will amount to
over $8000, though the monthly payments are slightly higher. It is also worth
mentioning that he will recoup $1000 spent on the closing costs after only 9
months by paying less interest. If refinancing had resulted in PMI elimination,
the savings would've been even greater.
Refinancing will save you, in today's dollars, $8,147 over the 10 years.
| Your Total Monthly
Payment With the Original Loan |
|
$977 |
| Your Total Monthly
Payment With the New Loan |
|
$1,085 |
Selling a house
From my limited experience, selling the house could be even more
frustrating than buying. Very often you are under the gun to sell by certain
time because you already have another house earmarked to buy and may be even
signed a purchase contract. You don't seem to be in control of selling: it is
just nobody is interested in buying from you and there is not a lot of showing
going on! And you are just sick and tired of this old house and the damned
neighbor's kids.
I tried selling by myself once: it did not work. But I bought a
house sold by owners, so I know it can work. I used a company who helps selling
by owner and I used real estate agent. It is just a matter of preference, what
you want and can do and at the end of the day--pure luck!
If you are interested in my experience, feel free to contact me.
Real Estate links
A few links that I found extremely helpful while working on this
page:
http://www.cincybyowner.com/index.html
http://www.cinhomes.com/
http://www.bayhouse.com/index.shtml
http://www.keystonefunding.com/
http://www.esourcemortgage.com/101/
http://www.businessweek.com/investor/nonips_content/pf_all_learn.htm
http://www.owners.com/Tools/BuyerHandbook/DecideToBuy.asp
http://www.creditoption.com/default.htm
http://www.bankrate.com/brm/default.asp
http://www.ftc.gov/

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